Set thermostats to 78°F in summer, and 68°F in winter.
Run ceiling fans on medium, blowing down in summer, and on low, blowing up in winter.
Change HVAC air filters monthly, making sure they are facing in the correct direction (look for the arrow on the side of the filter).
When heating or cooling systems are on, keep windows locked.
Insulate electric wall plugs and wall switches with foam pads.
Caulk along baseboards with a clear sealant.
Close fireplace dampers when not burning a fire.
Caulk around plumbing penetrations through walls beneath bathroom and kitchen sinks, as well as around electrical wire penetrations at the top of the interior walls.
In winter, close shades and drapes at night to keep heat in, and open them during the day to catch free solar heat. In summer, close shades and drapes during the day to help keep heat out.
Insulate the attic access door and ensure that it closes tightly.
Make sure attic insulation does not block soffit vents.
Do not close off unused rooms that are conditioned by forced-air systems.
Do not close supply air registers.
Check to be sure return air grilles are not blocked by furniture.
Ensure windows and doors are properly weather-stripped.
Make sure outside soffit vents are not blocked.
Do not use roof-top power ventilators for attic exhaust, as they may evacuate conditioned air from your home.
Have your HVAC system serviced once per year by a NATE-certified technician.
If your home’s relative humidity stays in the 60% range or higher in summer, ask your HVAC technician about lowering your central air conditioning unit’s indoor fan speed.
Ensure that window A/C units are weather-stripped, and that the window has weather-stripping between the middle of the top and bottom pane. Remove and clean window A/C filters monthly. Keep “fresh-air” vents on window A/C units closed.
Minimize use of electric space heaters.
When using the fireplace, reduce heat loss by opening the damper in the bottom of the firebox (if provided) or open the nearest window slightly.
Caulk around basement windows and storm windows.
Ensure that floor registers are not blocked with rugs, drapes, or furniture.
Keep your outdoor heat pump/air conditioning unit clean and free of debris.
Outside your home, caulk around all penetrations including telephone, electrical, cable, gas, water spigots, dryer vents, etc.
In a basement, seal the sill and band joist with durable caulking or foam sealant.
Use heavy-duty, clear sheets of plastic on the inside of windows to reduce the amount of cold air entering your home.
Verify your supply air duct “boots” (behind supply air registers) are caulked to the ceiling, wall sheetrock, or flooring.
Make sure that any ducts in an unconditioned space are tightly connected to your HVAC equipment.
Check to be sure that all outdoor doors (including storm doors) seal tightly.
In two-story homes serviced by one HVAC system, a paddle fan at the top of the stairs can push down warm, second-floor air.
Install 15-minute, spring-wound timers on bathroom ventilator fans.
Always run your HVAC system fan on “AUTO.” Running it on “ON” uses more electricity and can decrease your air conditioner’s ability to remove moisture.
Keep your garage door down. A warmer garage in the winter and a cooler garage in the summer will save energy.
